Furness Abbey
I’m quite a fan of old historical buildings. This is partly because I love the idea that people used to introduce architectural features on buildings (seemingly up to around the 1940s) just because this would make them look nice, as opposed to the generally more ‘functional’ type building introduced after that.
Old church buildings are frequently wonderful examples of this. The builders built them with a purpose of glorifying God in mind, and therefore they would frequently be bigger, taller, more ornate as opposed to the utilitarian building type I abhor. These sorts of buildings remind me that our history is important, and when considering events of the past, it is important to consider them in context, as opposed to judging them by today’s standards, and measuring them up against the relevance to the today’s generation.
Of course, this gives me an opportunity to quote one of my favourite bands:
They started work this morning down at city square
They’re pulling down the statues of our great grandfather’s hero
The new books say he wasn’t such a great man after all
And anyway remember that the times they are a-changing.Pull it down, drag it down, drag it down, pull it down
Till there’s nothing to look up to but the brand names on the posters all around.‘Drag It Down’, New Model Army
In other words, if we airbrush out our history, what are we left with — adverts and branding for global corporations. No thanks, I’ll keep the history.
Which is why when I was at a wedding in Barrow and was staying at the Abbey House Hotel, and discovered that nearby there were some ruins of a 12th Century Abbey nearby (not really that much of a surprise, given the hotel name) I had to take the opportunity to take a wander along and some pictures.
I was particularly interested to note that there was a Furness Abbey electricity substation. I had previously been under the impression that electricity was not widely available to 12th century monks, and had not thought that the national grid was in place to supply electricity to these sorts of sites at the time but hey, you live and learn…
You had to pay to get in (boo, hiss) but I don’t really begrudge English Heritage the money for the work they do not only in preserving historical monuments like this, but also in carrying out further investigations on the site.
Obviously when you go along to these sorts of things with a three year old and a five year old in tow, you don’t get quite the same things out of it that you do if wandering around with ample time and a guidebook. On the one hand, you get photos of the kids on spiral staircases and have fun explaining to the kids what an abbey was, and what the people who lived there would do, but on the other you don’t generally get to find out the specifics of the site at the time and have to look them up later.
For example, later reference to the guidebook tells me that the abbey was originally part of the Order of Savigny and was merged with the Cistercians in 1147 (although the Abbott of Furness opposed this and did not accept Cistercian rule until around 1150) at which time the church and cloister buildings were probably finished. The guidebook has a fascinating colour coded map of the site which shows when different parts of the Abbey were built — the North Transept being one of the earliest parts being built in the period from between 1127 and 1170.
The North Transept is quite interesting because you can clearly see that the supporting pillars are at an angle, rather giving the impression that they are tipping over. The guidebook actually explains that they were tipping over and had to be heavily underpinned with concrete in the 1920s as the original foundations (oak piles) were insufficient and parts were suffering from sinkage.
A little further along, the remains of the West Tower (15th/16th Century) gives some idea of the scale and grandeur of the abbey at its height. The remains currently stand at around sixty feet high, and as if that isn’t impressive enough, it is reckoned that this would have originally reached a height of some one hundred and sixty feet. That’s a big tower by anyone’s standards.
Furness Abbey was apparently implicated in the Pilgrimage of Grace, which was a protest against the suppression of the monasteries and support for religious autonomy. The last abbot of Furness Abbey (quite sensibly in my opinion) chose to hand over the abbey and its possessions to King Henry VIII in 1537 rather than face trial for treason, and was then apparently the first of the major monasteries to be dissolved.
It was only a little over ten years later that the first reference to the ‘Halle and other howses’ being in a ruinous state was made, and that’s the way they remained pretty much ever since. Whilst never completely ‘lost’ they were rediscovered to the national consciousness in the 19th Century as a result of being featured in William Wordsworth’s Guide to the Lakes (also available online).
A water course which separates the Abbot’s house from the rest of the site runs is visible along much of the site and also runs directly underneath the 13th Century kitchen, but like many parts of the site, little remains of the kitchen itself. However, despite the fact that large sections of the site are so collapsed as to be non-existent (many walls barely emerge from the ground at all), the the sheer scale of Furness Abbey means that an awful lot is still there — and enough of it in reasonable consition to make it well worth a visit. It’s a bit tucked out of the way near Barrow in Furness, so it’s not necessarily somewhere that you’ll have come across or encountered in passing, but if you are in the South Lakes area, and you like a bit of ancient architecture, I’d suggest it may be worth a trip… but don’t just take my word for it…
Conveyances are in attendance on the arrival of the Steamer at Bardsea to take passengers forward to Ulverston, three miles distant, from which place the Excursion to Furness Abbey, a circuit of fourteen miles, may be conveniently made…Complete Guide To The Lakes, comprising minute directions for the tourist, with Mr. Wordsworth’s description of the scenery of the country
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